What Materials Are Needed?
Wood: Use durable, untreated wood such as exterior-grade plywood, cedar or rough-cut lumber. Thicker materials help moderate temperature changes and retain warmth after sunset. Do not use pressure-treated or chemically treated wood, and avoid boards that may release excessive sap or resin when heated by the sun.
Fasteners and sealant: Assemble the house with exterior-grade screws and seal all exterior joints with paintable exterior caulk. A tightly sealed house helps prevent drafts and water intrusion. The roof should slope slightly and may be covered with shingles, metal flashing or another durable roofing material for added weather protection.
Exterior finish: Protect exterior surfaces with a water-based exterior paint or stain. Select a color suited to the local climate and the amount of direct sunlight the house will receive. Medium-to-dark colors can help retain solar warmth in cooler climates, but very dark houses may overheat in highly exposed locations. Do not apply paint, stain or varnish to the interior roosting surfaces.
Interior gripping surfaces: Bats need rough surfaces that allow them to cling and climb. Use rough-cut wood or cut shallow horizontal grooves into smooth interior panels. Do not use metal mesh, which can have sharp edges and may corrode or pull away from the wood. Mesh is generally unnecessary when the wood is properly roughened.
Chambers and ventilation: Use untreated wood spacers to create narrow roosting chambers according to a tested bat-house design. Include ventilation openings so bats can move to cooler areas during hot weather.
Landing area: Extend the back panel below the entrance to create a roughened landing area. A generously sized landing area gives bats space to grasp the house before entering.
Mounting hardware: Use sturdy, weather-resistant brackets, bolts or other hardware appropriate for attaching the house securely to a building or freestanding pole.
For more information on bat boxes, visit USFWS "How (and whether) to install bat boxes".
Wood: Use durable, untreated wood such as exterior-grade plywood, cedar or rough-cut lumber. Thicker materials help moderate temperature changes and retain warmth after sunset. Do not use pressure-treated or chemically treated wood, and avoid boards that may release excessive sap or resin when heated by the sun.
Fasteners and sealant: Assemble the house with exterior-grade screws and seal all exterior joints with paintable exterior caulk. A tightly sealed house helps prevent drafts and water intrusion. The roof should slope slightly and may be covered with shingles, metal flashing or another durable roofing material for added weather protection.
Exterior finish: Protect exterior surfaces with a water-based exterior paint or stain. Select a color suited to the local climate and the amount of direct sunlight the house will receive. Medium-to-dark colors can help retain solar warmth in cooler climates, but very dark houses may overheat in highly exposed locations. Do not apply paint, stain or varnish to the interior roosting surfaces.
Interior gripping surfaces: Bats need rough surfaces that allow them to cling and climb. Use rough-cut wood or cut shallow horizontal grooves into smooth interior panels. Do not use metal mesh, which can have sharp edges and may corrode or pull away from the wood. Mesh is generally unnecessary when the wood is properly roughened.
Chambers and ventilation: Use untreated wood spacers to create narrow roosting chambers according to a tested bat-house design. Include ventilation openings so bats can move to cooler areas during hot weather.
Landing area: Extend the back panel below the entrance to create a roughened landing area. A generously sized landing area gives bats space to grasp the house before entering.
Mounting hardware: Use sturdy, weather-resistant brackets, bolts or other hardware appropriate for attaching the house securely to a building or freestanding pole.
For more information on bat boxes, visit USFWS "How (and whether) to install bat boxes".
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